Choosing the right knitting pattern size starts with two things: your body measurements and how you want the finished garment to fit. A size M in one pattern can feel completely different from a size M in another, especially when one is fitted and the other is oversized.
The most useful numbers are your bust measurement (your body measurement) and the bust circumference (the finished garment measurement). Compare them to see how much room the garment will have. That difference is called ease.
In this guide, we’ll explain positive and negative ease, show you how to measure yourself, and walk through the size charts used in Dreamknit’s design tool. You’ll also learn how yarn choice and gauge can affect the final fit.
WHY YOUR USUAL CLOTHING SIZE MAY NOT WORK
Clothing sizes are a useful starting point, but they aren’t always reliable when choosing a knitting pattern. Different designers use different measurements, and the intended fit can vary quite a bit.
For example, two sweaters in size M might have very different bust circumferences. One could be designed to fit close to the body, while the other has plenty of extra room. Checking the bust circumferences helps you understand what you’re actually knitting.
Start by measuring around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the measuring tape level and comfortably close to your body. Then compare that measurement with the pattern’s bust circumference. Remember to measure again if your body or preferred fit changes.
WHAT ARE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE EASE?
Positive ease means the finished garment is larger than your body measurement. Negative ease means it is smaller and relies on the fabric stretching when worn. Both are useful, depending on the garment and the fit you want.
Here’s an overview of the ease used for different garments and fits in Dreamknit. Inch values are approximate.
| Garment and fit | Ease | What it feels like | |
|---|---|---|---|
| In cm | In inches | ||
| Sweater or cardigan, regular | +5 to +10 | about +2 to +4 | Room to move, still has a shape |
| Sweater or cardigan, oversized | +15 to +20 | about +6 to +8 | Slouchy, shoulder seam on the upper arm |
| Slipover or vest, slim | −5 to 0 | about −2 to 0 | Close to the body, layers under a shirt |
| Top, regular | −5 to −10 | about −2 to −4 | Fitted, gentle stretch |
| Top, slim | −15 to −20 | about −6 to −8 | Body-skimming, real stretch |
| Beanie | about −10 | about −4 | Stays on without squeezing |
| Mittens | +3 | about +1 | Slightly roomier than your hand |
| Cowl and scarf | No ease | No ease | Fixed measurements, not body-based |
In Dreamknit’s current sizing, the oversized option has a bust circumference 10 cm (about 4 in) larger than the regular option in the same size. That makes it easier to compare the two fits.
FOUR MEASUREMENTS WORTH CHECKING
Bust measurement is the main starting point for choosing a size in these charts, but a few other measurements can help you get the fit you want.
- Bust measurement: Measure around the fullest part of your bust. Use this to compare your measurements with the size chart.
- Upper arm: Measure around the widest part of your upper arm, especially if sleeve fit is something you often struggle with.
- Sleeve length: Measure from your armpit to your wrist with your arm relaxed.
- Body length: Decide where you want the garment to end. Measuring a sweater you already like can be a helpful reference.
Dreamknit sweaters and cardigans are worked from the top down, so you can usually adjust the length as you knit. Bust circumference takes more planning. Before casting on, check your gauge with a swatch: even a small difference in stitch gauge can noticeably change the bust circumferences. Our guide to gauge swatching explains how.
SIZE CHART: WOMEN’S SWEATERS AND CARDIGANS
Find your bust measurement in the second column, then look across to compare the bust circumferences for each fit. The same chart applies to Dreamknit cardigans.
| Size | Bust measurement | Bust circumference | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Slim, slipover and vest only | Regular | Oversized | ||
| XS | 80–85 cm (31½–33½ in) | 80 cm (31½ in) | 90 cm (35½ in) | 100 cm (39¼ in) |
| S | 85–90 cm (33½–35½ in) | 85 cm (33½ in) | 95 cm (37½ in) | 105 cm (41¼ in) |
| M | 90–95 cm (35½–37½ in) | 90 cm (35½ in) | 100 cm (39¼ in) | 110 cm (43¼ in) |
| L | 95–105 cm (37½–41¼ in) | 100 cm (39¼ in) | 110 cm (43¼ in) | 120 cm (47¼ in) |
| XL | 105–115 cm (41¼–45¼ in) | 110 cm (43¼ in) | 120 cm (47¼ in) | 130 cm (51¼ in) |
| XXL | 115–125 cm (45¼–49¼ in) | 120 cm (47¼ in) | 130 cm (51¼ in) | 140 cm (55 in) |
The slim option is currently available for women’s set-in slipovers and vests. For sweaters and cardigans, you can choose between regular and oversized.
WHAT ABOUT LARGER SIZES?
Dreamknit’s current women’s size charts go up to XXL, covering bust measurements up to 125 cm (49¼ in), while the men’s range goes up to 4XL. We’re working to expand our sizing, although we don’t have a confirmed launch date yet.
Extending a size range also means reviewing proportions, shaping, armholes and sleeves. We want to test those changes on different body shapes before releasing new sizes. Finding enough test knitters in the larger sizes has been one of the challenges.
If you’d like to help us test larger sizes, email hello@dreamknit.no with “Test knitting” in the subject line and include your bust measurement. We’d love to hear from you.
SIZE CHART: MEN’S SWEATERS
Use your bust measurement to find the relevant row, then compare the bust circumferences for regular and oversized fits.
| Size | Bust measurement | Bust circumference | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Regular | Oversized | ||
| XS | 85–90 cm (33½–35½ in) | 95 cm (37½ in) | 105 cm (41¼ in) |
| S | 90–95 cm (35½–37½ in) | 100 cm (39¼ in) | 110 cm (43¼ in) |
| M | 95–100 cm (37½–39¼ in) | 105 cm (41¼ in) | 115 cm (45¼ in) |
| L | 100–105 cm (39¼–41¼ in) | 110 cm (43¼ in) | 120 cm (47¼ in) |
| XL | 105–115 cm (41¼–45¼ in) | 120 cm (47¼ in) | 130 cm (51¼ in) |
| XXL | 115–120 cm (45¼–47¼ in) | 125 cm (49¼ in) | 135 cm (53¼ in) |
| 3XL | 120–125 cm (47¼–49¼ in) | 130 cm (51¼ in) | 140 cm (55 in) |
| 4XL | 125–135 cm (49¼–53¼ in) | 140 cm (55 in) | 150 cm (59 in) |
SIZE CHART: KNITTED TOPS
Dreamknit’s fitted tops use negative ease, meaning the finished top’s bust circumference is smaller than your bust measurement. The fabric stretches when you put it on, creating a closer fit. How comfortable that feels depends on the yarn, the stitch pattern and your preferences.
| Size | Bust measurement | Bust circumference | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Regular | Slim | ||
| XS | 80–85 cm (31½–33½ in) | 75 cm (29½ in) | 65 cm (25½ in) |
| S | 85–90 cm (33½–35½ in) | 80 cm (31½ in) | 70 cm (27½ in) |
| M | 90–95 cm (35½–37½ in) | 85 cm (33½ in) | 75 cm (29½ in) |
| L | 95–105 cm (37½–41¼ in) | 90 cm (35½ in) | 80 cm (31½ in) |
| XL | 105–115 cm (41¼–45¼ in) | 100 cm (39¼ in) | 90 cm (35½ in) |
| XXL | 115–125 cm (45¼–49¼ in) | 110 cm (43¼ in) | 100 cm (39¼ in) |
BODY LENGTH: CROPPED, REGULAR AND LONG
Dreamknit offers three body lengths for these garments. Sweater and cardigan lengths are measured from the center back of the neck, while tops are measured from the top of the shoulder.
| Size | Women: sweater and cardigan (cm) | Women: top (cm) | Men: sweater (cm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 47 / 52 / 58 | 45 / 52 / 58 | 57 / 62 / 68 |
| S | 48 / 52 / 58 | 45 / 52 / 58 | 59 / 64 / 70 |
| M | 50 / 54 / 60 | 47 / 54 / 60 | 61 / 66 / 72 |
| L | 54 / 60 / 66 | 53 / 60 / 66 | 63 / 68 / 74 |
| XL | 58 / 64 / 70 | 58 / 64 / 70 | 65 / 70 / 75 |
| XXL | 60 / 68 / 73 | 60 / 68 / 73 | 66 / 71 / 76 |
| 3XL | – | – | 67 / 72 / 76 |
| 4XL | – | – | 68 / 73 / 77 |
Each cell shows cropped / regular / long, in that order.
Our sweaters and cardigans are knitted from the top down, making it easy to customize the length. You can try your garment on as you knit and stop when it reaches the length you prefer. Just remember that changing the length also changes how much yarn you need. If you plan to make your sweater longer than the measurements in your pattern, buy some extra yarn so you have enough to finish it.
EXAMPLE: CHOOSING A SWEATER SIZE
Let’s say your bust measurement is 94 cm (37 in) and you want to knit the Heim Sweater with an oversized fit.
- 94 cm sits in the M row of the bust measurement column, which runs 90 to 95 cm.
- Oversized ease is +15 to +20 cm, so the bust circumference you are aiming for is roughly 109 to 114 cm.
- M oversized finishes at 110 cm. That is +16 cm on you, right inside the range. Knit M.
Now the same body, same 94 cm, but you want a fitted top instead, something like the Betty Top. Tops run on negative ease, so the direction flips.
- A regular-fit top in M finishes at 85 cm. With a 94 cm bust measurement that is −9 cm: fitted, with real stretch. That is the shape doing its job.
- Prefer it less close? Go up to L, which finishes at 90 cm, so −4 cm. Same top, calmer fit.
- Want it properly body-skimming? The slim fit in M finishes at 75 cm, which is −19 cm. Only do that in a yarn with real spring to it.
The important part is the bust circumference and how it compares with your body, rather than the size letter alone.
WHY OVERSIZED SWEATERS HAVE DROPPED SHOULDERS
If you’re knitting an oversized sweater with set-in sleeves, you may notice that the shoulder seam sits lower on the arm than on a regular-fit sweater. That can be an intentional part of the silhouette.
In Dreamknit’s women’s set-in sweaters, regular shoulder widths range from 33 to 38 cm (13–15 in), while oversized shoulder widths range from 46 to 65 cm (18–25½ in). This wider shoulder construction helps create the relaxed shape.
HOW YARN AND GAUGE AFFECT THE FIT
The size chart is a starting point. The fabric you create matters too, especially when a garment is designed with negative ease.
Elasticity. Wool often has more natural recovery than cotton or linen, although yarn construction and stitch pattern also make a difference. If you’re knitting a fitted top in a less elastic yarn, consider whether you’d prefer less negative ease. Our guide to choosing yarn by project helps you pick a fiber that suits what you’re making, and our yarn weight chart helps you compare yarn thicknesses.
Blocking and gauge. Some yarns change noticeably after washing, which can affect both width and length. Wash and dry your gauge swatch as you plan to care for the finished garment, then measure it before deciding on a size.
WHAT IF YOU’RE BETWEEN SIZES?
If your bust measurement falls between two sizes, compare the bust circumferences for both. You may prefer the smaller or larger size depending on the fit you want.
For example, if your bust measurement is 103 cm, a regular-fit sweater in L finishes at 110 cm, giving you 7 cm of positive ease. In XL, the bust circumference is 120 cm, giving you 17 cm of ease. Both could work, but they’ll look and feel quite different. If you want the intended regular fit, L is the closer match.
A few more things to consider:
- Yarn and fabric: A thick, structured fabric can look and feel different from a soft, drapey one, even at the same measurement.
- Sleeve fit: Check upper-arm measurements if you often find sleeves too tight. Sizing up the whole sweater may change the fit elsewhere.
- Length: If the width works but you want a longer sweater, you can often add length without changing size.
CHOOSING SIZES FOR HATS, MITTENS AND ACCESSORIES
Ease matters for accessories too, but the measurements you need depend on what you’re making.
| Item | How ease works | Measure this |
|---|---|---|
| Beanie | About −10 cm (−4 in). It has to grip. | Head circumference above the ears |
| Mittens | +3 cm (+1 in). Want them closer? Size down. | Hand circumference around the knuckles |
| Cowl | No ease. Fixed circumference and height per size. | Nothing. Pick by how you want to wear it |
| Scarf | No ease. Fixed width and length per size. | Nothing |
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How do I choose a sweater size for knitting?
Measure your bust, add the ease for the fit you want, and knit the size whose bust circumference is closest to that total. For a regular fit add 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 in). For oversized add 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 in). Use the pattern’s measurements rather than relying only on your usual shop size.
Is it better to size up or down in a knitted sweater?
Compare the bust circumferences and decide which amount of ease you prefer. Also consider the fabric, sleeve fit and intended silhouette. You can often adjust length independently.
How much positive ease should an oversized sweater have?
There’s no single rule for every oversized sweater. Dreamknit’s oversized sweater fits typically use around 15–20 cm (6–8 in) of positive ease, and their bust circumferences are 10 cm (about 4 in) wider than the regular option in the same size.
What is the difference between positive and negative ease?
Positive ease means the finished garment is larger than your body measurement; negative ease means it is smaller and stretches to fit. Zero ease means the garment and body measurements are the same.
Do your patterns come in sizes above XXL?
Not yet. We're working on it, but we want the construction and shaping to really work in larger sizes, not just scale up, and that needs proper testing. We're looking for test knitters in larger sizes. Email hello@dreamknit.no if you'd like to help.
Does blocking change the ease?
Yes. Different fibers and stitch patterns respond differently to washing and drying. Always measure your gauge after washing and drying your swatch as you would the finished garment.
DESIGN A SWEATER IN YOUR PREFERRED FIT
When you design a garment in Dreamknit, you can choose the garment type, fit and size, and see the corresponding bust measurement and bust circumference in the size guide. Your knitting pattern is then generated for your chosen yarn and gauge. You can also explore men’s designs here.
Looking for inspiration? Explore our sweater patterns and cardigan patterns.
You can also start with the Ada Sweater, available free to Dreamknit PRO members and those who sign up for marketing emails. Want to understand the process first? Read our guide to designing your own knitting pattern.
Need to convert measurements or needle sizes? See our knitting conversion chart.
